Will brought it up. http://opengarages.org/handbook/ebook/ Looks like a great book for security of cars.
Tradeoff between cost of repairs and presumably less likelihood of repairs.
Schrodinger's Box, Scanner Danner. There a lot of other that seem pretty good too!
LinkedIn of Matt: https://www.linkedin.com/in/matt-bernstein-03258810/. Bam…
Do I really need a giant SUV to stay safe on the road? What types of crashes are there, and would driving a big car have helped?
I think the primary way to stay safe is probably defensive driving. NFSA series looks great.
Safe driving school (skid car, $350 for 3 hours): https://www.prodrive.net/car-control-and-defensive-driving-course
Head-on collisions aren't comparable between car sizes (big cars win), but other collision types (angle, sideswipe) are comparable.
However, how many of the crashes are from a drunk driver?
Very similar for each year. FIRST reporting system (easier query): https://cdan.dot.gov/query
|Type||Fatal Crashes||Non-Fatal Crashes|
Don't fit for various reasons: Prius N (don't fit in back), N-1 (seat isn't adjustable), Civic N, Accord N & N-1. Corolla (back seat not tall enough), Avalon (feels like a cockpit).
Fits: Civic N-1, C-Max (George Magher at Ford place). Focus (had issues with transmissions that were supposedly fixed in 2016+?), not sure about Fiesta.
To Try: Versa & Sentra (reliability is ?). Matrix.
What car would be fun to drive? They all look the same on the inside and they go from point A to B…
Honda salesman is David Stephens. Ford guy's name is…I forget.
|Higher pitched whining at all times while engine running||Torque converter (transmission)|
For when you're out and about and need to fix something
Also buy more antifreeze and xl gloves for home in same trip.
Pretty sure bearing now. Axles don't spin on themselves. Bearings do. https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/wheel-bearing-noise-diagnostics/
But need to make sure bearing is properly torqued, etc.
Follow these steps. Get copies of drivers license, etc. https://www.quora.com/What-can-I-do-if-the-buyer-of-my-car-doesnt-register
I did most of the stuff, but ergh.
Pulling down control arms. https://youtu.be/BPs-QALECqs?t=195. (pull down using a chain hooked around the arm and a crowbar/long metal thing fulcrum'd against the frame in the back).
Domes recommended Pace-Way in Hillsboro for advanced issues.
Tire rollers? https://pitstopusa.com/i-5084746-joes-tire-roller.html
Discount Tire, I don't think I need Certificate For Repair, Refund or Replacement. Ask for what happens without it and if ok, ask for a refund of all 4 tires if possible.
I happen to like taking turns aggressively in safe conditions. It's pretty fun when you sit in a cube all day and there are no other roller coasters around you!
However, tire dealers have insisted that tires have some sort of mileage warranty so they have some way to compare and contrast. If you do a comparison of the warranties vs the UTQG treadwear rating, you'll see a loose correlation. But treadwear warranties also do not work in a straightforward manner. That’s because most tire wear occurs in the cornering mode. In order to generate the force necessary to move 2 tons of vehicle in a different direction, the tires have to produce a slip angle - the difference between the direction the tire is pointed and the direction it is actually going. And that scrubs off rubber - the more severe the cornering, the more rubber is scrubbed off. When doing severe handling maneuvers, tires last 10’s of miles.
On the other hand, a tire that goes straight ahead, is close to no wear at all! I’ve conducted tests where the range of mileage received was a 10 fold difference - 10K to 100K - and the differences were the road surface (new abrasive concrete vs well worn asphalt) and the service (local delivery vs hauls between cities.)
Tire has to oppose centripetal force as well as normal weight. What doesn't make sense is if, on a flat surface, rolling resistance slightly increases as the <constant> speed increases (no acceleration)…why? No more tire touches the ground.
Not as significant as racing
Try to figure out what parts you need ahead of time. Then buy them for 1/2 the price at RockAuto and have them do the labor. Otherwise it's the same day double price + time to get it parts. More expensive…
To change them, spray carb cleaner down in hole first, then rock the plug back and forth to break any seal and let the carb cleaner penetrate any carbon buildup. Ehh, just watch this: https://youtu.be/hAvmYeQ3TXo?t=35m1s
Need to be warm (700F) in order to operate correctly, plus a cold engine runs rich to <heat up the engine more quickly??>
Replaced things on time / when needed. Don't hear any funny noises.
There are minuses, but they haven't affected me enough or I found a workaround. I provide all that I remember so it saves both of us time and energy.
Other less noticeable:
Parents still think people will think it's an unreliable/undesirable car.
|Spring 2020|| Leak in radiator pipe/hose, fixed with Stop Leak. However pipe split on trip to beach, thankfully at the beach. Got replacement part and more coolant/stop leak just in case.
|Apr 2019||Bolt on outer tie rod wasn't tightened properly by me (doh), so came off while driving. No accident! I couldn't easily find the right bolt, so ended up buying new tie rod end, but couldn't get it off (too rusty). Cut it off, installed new inner tie rod and had Paceway do the other side and alignment + tire rotation. $50 / hour of labor is cheap in my book. $300 + 5 hours time|
|Apr 2019||$50 for ball bearing (fixed the sound!) and $50 for repair, plus time|
|Dec 2018||Changed oil (what mileage?!), replaced tires $300. Replaced left driver side axle $40 on saturday (6 hours), didn't fix sound.|
|Summer 2018||$1k for Front lower control arms and ball joints and timing belt|
|Summer 2017||Bought car for $1.6K|
Check the ECU connection to the battery (little orange wire, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzmZiUqnaJY) or the nearby ground to the frame.
Clean w/ wire brush and/or with water/baking soda. Then get dry and put a little dielectric grease / vaseline? in between connection not to increase connection but to protect from ozone corrosion
Check the ground connections using multimeter (I feel like it's not accurate though under load?). Alternatively just connect each using a jumper cable.
AKA the “big 3”: http://www.focushacks.com/mod/Improving_your_chassis_ground_%28Big_3%29. but they just upgrade the cable awg.
Truck guy had a missing ground.
Possible recall. https://repairpal.com/recall/02V288000
We'll try it out for now. Ramp on manual over time?
Can borrow 29mm and 21mm sockets from auto parts stores for brake squeak and transmission mount.
Also need 1 dust cover for wheel bearing. Not sure on size, but it's a bendable metal.
https://youtu.be/70vSN8l8VTw?t=5m58s. Schrodinger's box narrows it down to a really lean combined fuel trim, which means a vacuum leak. He sprays propane / fuel around to find where the leak is, because the engine will start running better instantaneously.
It's sporadic. Reinserting the fuel pump relay “fixed” it, but it seems sporadically helpful from comments online. Might need to look for water intrusion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGPW64RGpmU&lc=UgzWpWaEZ2QI7xSRtzN4AaABAg
One guy says to check power and ground on ignition harness.
Need to get engine mount and maybe new steering knuckle gasket thing.
Clear the trouble codes and see if they show up again. Clear memory for Siemens remote thing by drivers side right side under dash by unplugging its power.
If a timing belt isn't so bad, it might be worth getting that service manual…
Think about taking to independent shop, Aloha Auto Center?
Jay says buy parts that have 1 year or more warranty. Not necessarily OEM but something you can get a return on
Clean idle air control valve. Test EGR valve?
Also can use brake cleaner pretty interchangeably with carb cleaner. https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/19062/brake-cleaner-vs-carb-cleaner-vs-throttle-body-cleaner But watch out for paint…
Cleaning headlights with sandpaper and water and Rustoleum 2X clear coat gloss, states non-yellowing and UV resistant on the can. Ala ChrisFix: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM
Also, cleaning the windshield with steel wool and water works pretty well! Be sure to clean off the bulk with a softer plastic scrubby pad.
Can get new keys programmed (even with 1 remaining key) for sure using FORScan extended. (PATS Programming). Works great! Takes about 5 minutes and need OBD2
Alternate method is to wipe all existing key codes.
“Originate a New Key” (Use this method only it you don't have any working keys.) 1.Insert new transponder key and turn ignition to “ON” position. The dashboard security light will turn on and stay on for 15 minutes. 2. Once the security light stops flashing, you have 5 minutes to begin step 3. Turn ignition to “OFF” and then back “ON” position. The dashboard security light will turn on and flash for another 15 minutes.
3. Repeat step2. 4. Once the dashboard security light has stopped for the third time, the key has been successfully programmed. This is now the ONLY key that is programmed to the system and all previous electronic key codes have been erased .
with no keys is to wip and maybe just by waiting 30 minutes X 2.
Fault to ground on remote something something. Might be causing the battery drain.
===OBDII DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: On Board Diagnostic II ===END OBDII DTC None=== ===IC DTC U1262=== Code: U1262 - SCP Data Link Fault Module: Instrument Cluster Diagnostic Trouble Code details SCP Data Link Fault Operator Action Run self test. All CMDTCs Fix all relevant DTCs then clear codes and retest. Note: DTCs that start with 'U' are faults which occur during module-to-module communication. Modules should never be replaced based only on a 'U' code. These codes do not always indicate a problem, and can be caused by normal diagnostic functions, carried out on the vehicle. ===END IC DTC U1262=== ===PCM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Powertrain Control Module ===END PCM DTC None=== ===CSM DTC B2159=== Code: B2159 - Remote Personalization Output Circuit Short to Ground Module: Security module Diagnostic Trouble Code details Remote Personalization Output Circuit Short to Ground ------Possible Causes------- Memory #1 Output Short to Ground Short circuit on Pin M4 or M14 ===END CSM DTC B2159=== ===CSM DTC B2496=== Code: B2496 - Horn/Panic Output Driver Short to Ground Module: Security module Diagnostic Trouble Code details Horn/Panic Output Driver Short to Ground Anti-theft horn output circuit short to ground ===END CSM DTC B2496=== ===ECS DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Electronic Crash Sensor ===END ECS DTC None=== ===CTM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Central timer module ===END CTM DTC None===
Cheap $13 bootlegged versions on Ebay includes lots of years. Not sure if I want to do that or not…
Otherwise can legally buy hard copy on ebay or use AllDataDIY or Mitchell1 (more expensive) the other website for $30/year. Federal regulations require that car manufacturers publish this information.
I mainly want to look at it and see if it's useful. I don't mind buying a paper copy too. Schrodinger's box recommends it.
“If you're doing detailed information on GM vehicles, you want GM Service Information. Otherwise normal service manuals or Chilton's wshould work fine”
This style of craigslist search was helpful. Can further filter and make a website for ranking postings.
Yaris doesn't have curtain air bags….hmm…
Otherwise Spark is a great car.
Probably a dried out bushing. Factory parts tend to not have grease fittings because they are trying to save money.
I like the low MPG of the honda insight (60 mpg on freeway due to 3 cylinder engine), but compared to a 40mpg vehicle might not be worth it.
I remember Vancouver guy saying insurance frequently quotes 2-3X the actual cost of repair. We'll find out…
From random guy on internet:
Has driven lots of cars. All are good enough for normal usage. However, squeaks and clinks, only the luxury brands are going to spend money making sure they don't happen in the long term. He likes Mercedes the most for reliability, etc.
Want to get a car that is well maintained, kind of regardless of price.
Amy recommended AutoTrader and CarMax for additional eyes.
turboseize March 19, 2012, 7:19 am
There is one factor so much more important than manufacturer and model: maintenance.
A neglected Toyota or Mercedes will brake down eventually, but a properly serviced crappy Daewoo/Chevrolet might go on forever.
Make, model, age and mileage are irrelevant. Maintenance history and good mechanical shape aren’t. Unfortunately, these are not so obvious as the aforementioned make and model. When you’re buying a used car and you are not into old cars always bring along an expert: the car nerd. He is easily found on the internet, just open a thread in a forum dedicated to the specific manufacturer or model. The common car nerd will be ready to help you – in exchange for a crate of beer or a pizza or the eqivalent local “currency”. This greatly reduces the risk of buying a lemon. Besides, you could learn something…
Joe Average March 4, 2015, 10:58 am +1
I say that because I get very good service out of my vehicles. Some of my family and peers try to emulate that and buy the same make and/or model. At some point when they (a few of them) have problems they get really confused. Why do I have such good LUCK with these cars? Its not luck though. Its about treating the car well, using quality replacement parts and fluids, and not letting problems go for so long that they start to contribute to other problems.
An example would be letting bad shocks go for so long that the suspension bushings are prematurely worn out or shock tower cracks begin. I bought that car when I was young. When I started to put struts on it my mechanic friend (who was teaching me something every time I hung out with him) told me not to bother. With cracks that serious and the car’s value being so low and so many other problems, it was better to cut my losses and start over with something else. That car had around 100K very hard, very neglected miles on the odometer. Compare that to my other cars which have lasted 300K miles more or less and have never had any problems like those b/c they were not driven HARD and not neglected. Note fast and hard are different things. Hard means keep it out of the potholes. That means slow down for speed bumps. That means accelerate gently and then brake gently. Save that wear for the rare occasion that you NEED to drive it hard to be safe and avoid an accident.
Back to my peers – they are almost universally “door slammers”. These are people who just ignore the vehicle and just get in, slam the door, twist the key and stomp the “GO” pedal. They might drive it until it drops ignoring those funny hammering noises coming from the engine or the fact that the transmission won’t shift 3rd to 4th occasionally until they rev it to death. That rusty spot? No big deal. Until a chunk of the body or chassis falls out. Had they addressed it when it was a rusty chip in the paint, it could have been repaired for 59 cents. Its expensive to be a door slammer frequently paying for expensive repairs and “trading up” when they give their old car to the dealer on trade b/c they won’t do a private sale.
And almost universally they don’t want to learn anything about their car until it is costing them more than they can afford to pay this month. They either pony up the cash, walk or go get a car loan. Most opt for the latter option. I was amazed at how much information was available on the internet even in the early days and spent many an evening reading the forums rather than watching TV. That info is still out there and it’s multiplied a thousand fold. Easy picture by picture procedures that beat anything that the repair manuals ever offered. Buy a quality tool or two when your car needs a repair. In time you’ll have everything you need to do a repair for “free” with only your time invested. It took a long time but since I like to work on cars (love working on machines) I have a garage shop and restore antique cars. I can do it all now and my investment in tools was less than a used car. When I wear out a cheap tool b/c I used it so much, I generally replace it with a quality tool. Think Craftsman. Good enough for a home garage and frequent use. Yeah there is Snap-On tools but I don’t use my tools all day every day.
Also – it’s a good fallback plan should I ever find myself unemployed or underemployed. Buy, fix, and flip used cars. Or antique cars. When I was a 20-something single guy – this kept me out of trouble and helped me drive for free. Buy something that needed TLC, fix it up, drive it for six months, sell it after buying something else. I was buying cars for nothing that needed a major cleaning and $15 worth of repairs occasionally. The last time I did that I got an S-10 pickup for free going to the junkyard because the mechanic told the fellow that the engine was ruined. He is/was a door slammer and never, ever changed the oil apparently. I pulled the seat out, pulled a whole trash can worth of food wrappers out of it (yuck!) and literally hosed the interior out. Scrubbed the seat. Looked great. That ruined engine? It had low oil pressure b/c it was so gummed up. I changed the oil twice in 4 days and drove it a couple of hundred miles. Sold it to my buddy within that first week and he kept changing the oil and putting decent oil filters on it. About four years later he is still driving it without a trouble and the truck looks good outside and great inside. Even has cold a/c. That oil pressure problem went away as the engine flushed itself out little by little each oil change. (Avoid engine flush solvent IMHO). He’s happy and I was happy. Happily spent the money on my family’s needs (unexpected bill).
Another good example is my daily driver. The power mirror and door locks have failed in the driver’s door. A fellow has detailed out with pictures and parts numbers how to repair the wiring that runs through the door jamb for about $10. Seems the manufacturer didn’t quite get the design right and the wires break right at the nylon terminal block. This fellow has found the correct parts from Digikey or Newark Electronics to repair it for very cheap. Take it all apart, snip the wires a fraction of an inch shorter, put new terminals on the ends, and slip them back into the nylon block. good for another ~175,000 miles. I think highly of my old CR-V but I doubt it’ll still be rolling around with 450,000 miles on it so the door jambs wires should be good “forever”.
Generally transfers except for Hyundai and Kia. Chevy / GM, although not explicitly mentioned, transfers with the title.
Bank has the title if car is still in loan. Need to pay off the bank, but they might have a pre-payment penalty. So…how do you get the title?
Ford focus looks good. $5k for original? owner and under 100K miles and well maintained. https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/6160655907.html
Probably want to disconnect the battery / put a float charger on it.
Also should drive once a month to full temperature so that everything is moved around inside and flexes. Should be good to go though.
Preventative maintenance on cars with timing belt is a $500-$1000 repair.
Sorta. Have to buy them used and “broken” / not worth price of fixing, then fix them up with a little bit of youtubing. Then sell them again when fixed and you're done with them!
Personally I'd rather help the world through making systems better, but it's a nice way to save money.
So far the Obdlink SX is good enough, with the included OBDWiz software. A $40 upgrade lets you import custom PIDs and get the extended PIDs for GM and Ford, and their other PID upgrades are pretty reasonably priced compared to the AutoEnginuity ones that are the same.
Another option is the android Torque app, but you'd need a $2 USB OTG cable to get it working, and it still seems you'd need to find out what the PIDs are from someone.
Tried ScanTool package, but it didn't recognize the Saab. The baud rate of Obdlink SX is 115200. Use COM port 1 to use /dev/ttyUSB0.
(MAF isn't happy, not a lean/rich code like P0171). Will wait a few times to see what happens. It's a pending code apparently.
P0340. (Camshaft sensor something-or-other) A real error code!!
Forum and service manual says there is no camshaft sensor, it's smartly detected by the direct ignition controller sensing the resistance? of the spark plugs, which I guess varies before and after ignition.
Nissan 200SX. Rough idle sometimes, sometimes it will die in the middle of driving.
Working through Schrodinger's Box videos on diagnostics for this…really helpful! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cARQ0jZZ4Qc&list=PLKQS2gNIDMggela-mTBPpzT9P2TeKCgXb&index=19
|Metromile|| Base cost of $33.50 + $.026 per mile, per month. For 300 miles/mo, it's $41.28.
Comes out to ~Geico, but Geico allows more miles
I feel like going with GEICO. About $15 cheaper per month ($42 vs $56) for the 2001 Ford Focus.
Also, doing “comparison” with Nerd Wallet (only had 2 companies) show $75 and $125 per month. Progressive is slightly more, $250 for 6 months vs. 230 with GEICO.
I am ok with staying with State Farm for now. Only $10 more than Geico, which means in the future GEICO will probably be quite cheap since I won't need full coverage, etc.
He doesn't recommend low deductible house insurance, read more on life. http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2011/06/02/insurance-a-tax-on-people-who-are-bad-at-math/
In increasing order of complexity:
Still can't track it down…It doesn't always happen so it doesn't seem like a constant leak.
Lay a thin sheet over the front of the car dash and then look at with thermal? or maybe visible camera over time. The parts where it is cooler should be where moisture is as there is evaporation occurring.
Polarized sunglasses…that's a good one!
Otherwise tape down black felt, which I'll probably do for night-time driving with lights. Covercraft looks good. I think the best would be a (hard) sheet of glossy black plastic acrylic. It reflects the light source exactly and doesn't spread the light all over the dash like felt would do.
I have ordered the 2014 Spark EV Owners Manual from Helm Inc, so I will read if there is a oil change maintenance plan in the manual.The Spark EV maintenance schedule in a nutshell:
-Tire rotations every 7500 miles / 12,000 kms (various minor inspections recommended at this interval as well- coolant levels, wiper blades, etc) -HVAC filter every 22,000 miles / 36,000 kms or annually whichever comes first -EV Drive unit trans fluid (Dexron VI) 97,500 miles / 156,000 kms -Coolants* (battery, cabin heating, electronics loops ) 150,000 miles / 240,000 kms or every 5 years whichever comes first
*GM Dexcool premix same as the Volt uses
I think it had something to do with going to 12A charging rate, but I was using 14 awg cable. I think anyway
I need to be able to use an extension cord. This is dumb…what extension cord can I buy such that I can charge from a distance?
Literally unscrewing them and mounting them on the other side of the vehicle. Couldn't be easier … Even mentioned in the manual! It also says to
Lightly coat the center of the wheel hub with wheel bearing grease after a wheel change or tire rotation to prevent corrosion or rust build-up. Do not get grease on the flat wheel mounting surface or on the wheel nuts or bolts
… ahh so take off the cover and add a little grease to it and put cover back on. cool.
Probably difficult to download everything from http://shop.repairservicemanuals.com/product/chevorlet-repair-service-manual-instant-download/?attribute_year=2014&attribute_model=Chevrolet+Spark+EV+LT&attribute_access-period=1-Year or Alldatadiy.com (but only $30 or so to access for a year, not so bad), so go with the real thing for $300.
Spark EV OBDII codes: http://www.mychevysparkev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4199.
Chevy Spark EV was on sale for $20,500. $7,500 rebate makes it $13,000. Less than $129 lease, but assumes $10,500 residual, but the used car will probably sell around $8000. Ehh, I'll probably break even. Safe during winter, although not leather. We shall see…
Vs a gas car, it seems to be a lot cheaper after the collective people of USA give you $7500 rebate. https://www.cruncher.io/?/view/JJd6dNAmnr. Nolan only version: https://www.cruncher.io/?/w12tFAWW51
Getting to work, no. Leisurely bike even with rain to max station and Intel bus picks me up. I would appreciate a pannier rack for groceries and occasionally carting laptop and workout clothes.
My only car needs would be sometimes ultimate frisbee during lunch 4 miles away, an occasional evening and weekend. Can borrow M&D's car occasionally for evening.
$32 /day for one day. Rate is less for more days. Doesn't include gas. Enterprise is really close by home. Can't do Uber at the same time.
$7/mo + $7/hour or $70/day.
$2 or $3 per mile. Really quick pick up and stuff.
Don't really need a car for $40/mo insurance + $83/mo depreciation + $10/mo repairs/tires.
Your mileage may vary
Art is his name, works at Cascade Auto which does mainly salvage → rebuilt titles. Goes to Church of Truth in Vancouver.
There is more below, but I wanted to drop a link here in case I come back to it: http://www.saveinvestgive.com/search/label/Automobiles
Really smart guy. Lists lots of fallacies with investing and expenses and stuff. Budget for things you really want to do, not to spend all your time thinking about car details to save $200 a year.
The statement of “if it's more than the worth of the car don't do it” doesn't really hold if the car is only worth $1000. $1000/year is much better than new car depreciation + insurance premiums, although I'm not so sure that it's better than a newer used car that is more reliable.
Generally it's meant for a $4000 engine/transmission fix that you're better off buying a $1000 same used car with a non-broken engine and maybe using your old car as a parts car??.
2004-200? it is easy to replace the headlight. Sweet!
The electric only acceleration is going to be slow. That's ok. It's basically from the high torque but low acceleration electric motor. It's coupled with a low torque but higher speed / efficiency gas motor. Use them both and accelerate as needed. When you get up to speed the gas motor will turn off and you can just cruise along with electric motor only.
http://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files. Great reviews of mechanics from car people and not yelp necessarily
Civic, fit, corolla
Cruise control (some fit base models don't, but you can buy it).
I just got in an accident with a car riding on my bicycle. Calling 911 and getting a police car to take statements is important to getting both sides of the story. However, making a recorded statement over the phone with the “responsible” party's car insurance (or your own) seems just as good. Don't establish fault at the scene of the crime, but collect as much evidence is as necessary to determine fault. You need their insurance information to collect or give a claim.
Here are the <DICOM format> images of the x-ray of your broken elbow / arm. brokenelbow_dicom_files.zip Here is the screw:
Here are the physical therapy exercises: elbow_pt.pdf
Jennifer from Moda Health at 10:30AM on 8/19/2014 said all they needed in a Personal Injury Protection (PIP) exhaustion letter is just the coverage of the 3rd party, that that amount has been paid out to the doctors, and to bill the health insurance for the rest. That's all folks…
Air suspension is nice, but tends to die after 10 years or so. This has lasted 20, pretty good!
MMM recommends driving manual (100 lbs) and removing any weight possible (spare tire). Also:
Just google for oil change, found a $20 coupon for Jiffy Lube. $25 at classic lube express normally.
From Bob is the Oil Guy, in general:
Some of the engines are tired and starting to show wear, burn oil or leak a little. High Mileage oils are typically designed to work with some of these aging engine’s issues. Gaskets and seals get harder from repeated heat cycles and loss of plasticizers as the vehicle ages – high mileage oils use special additives to condition these seals to help keep them functioning and pliable.
Trying SeaFoam this time, alternatives are Techron and Purple ___ something.
Generally, if you really want to clean out your engine, do it manually.
Bob is the Oil Guy is a nice site…
Whistling power steering. Scotty Kilmer says it might be low/leaking.
Really only happens when cold, diminishes a lot when warmed up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM. Basically use varying levels of sandpaper, use water liberally, and finally apply a gloss clear coat with spray paint and uv protection.
The aluminum coating on the plastic has burned? away. >.<
While DIY is great, it can really help to have a 2nd opinion for $100, especially if the person is a specialist in that type of car. It's less to reject the car, but to determine the amount of money needed to bring it to good operating shape. (How much the car is actually worth). If the owner doesn't agree to that price, then you've lost your $100. But…the mechanic will probably let you ride along and figure out the checkpoints too.
Notes in addition to normal stuff. From Schrodinger's Box: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VHv7nQkZzA Bring clamp to clamp up hood if needed. LED light for inspecting boots and joints.
Chris Fix has good videos and checklist too: howtoinspectausedcarchecklistchrisfix.pdf
Only $10000 now. Fast charger is nice, but unneccessary for city driving.
Consumer reports says that the crash ratings and noise, etc are better for compact cars and doesn't change increase the MPG that much.
|Lincoln||Ideal Car||Used Car #1|
|Repairs|| $200 used front airbags + $200 pump |
$100 for headlights
|- stuff|| 20 MPG city |
Can't fit bike into it
Coming to Prius and Corolla is a new hybrid system that supposedly will get better MPG.
Parts (at least suspension) are rarely common across makes/models after 1990. And it is difficult to justify still making OEM parts after 10 years or so.
Call Toyota/Honda/Ford people directly for parts!??!
Don't buy Mercedes and no-key system?! Lots of extra bells and whistles that cost a ton of money to repair. And when the electronics break, there are exorbitant prices to fix!
Eric the Car Guy recommends not doing the AC stuff yourself as there are a lot of things that can go wrong! Also don't use the cheap Walmart DIY kit. video
U.J. says have mechanics check how much brake pad is left when they take off the wheel.
Switching the front and rear tires, as the front wears more due to more weight against it.
Optional! They sometimes add a little weight to the rim opposite an abnormally weighty part of a tire so that it doesn't wobble when you're driving down the road. These can fall off and be annoying for bicyclists
If the balancing doesn't fix your problem, then you might need to align the tire “holders” on the car (camber, etc).
Very dim on Lincoln Mark VIII. Grandpa tried sanding them, and it stays clear for a while, but it's a bad set of plastic he thinks. Reasons:
Default light types are halogen still. Up from there is HID, then LED, then Lasers!!! nice overview article