10? “advanced” bike things
Coloring a clear white, acrylic paint looks good: https://www.resinobsession.com/resin-resin-resin/how-to-color-clear-epoxy-resin/
(flexible tires sidewalls basically?) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPzj9r2S270
Or Lens. On amazon for pretty cheap.
For when you have extra groceries to buy or … ? Taking a car infrequently is pretty easy though.
Or child trailer. But sucky part is storing it. Somehow mount to ceiling.
Vixen or xLights
Screw connectors for waterproofing and strength.
Wemos D1 Mini is awesome. $4 each, and you get wifi, 4mb of flash, free webserver, etc. Wow.
Also want to use FastLED. They do dithering and lots of cool patterns. Don't support RGBW, unfortunately
with yellow pool noodle. Free code!
Also free code! And construction!
He uses Ray Wu's Alibaba page: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/701799. But prices aren't that much different for 5V led strips than ALITOVE on amazon
BBlack lights and tanning beds and UV leds all put out 320-400 nm UV light. (UVA).
Pretty sure more UV light is put out during the daytime w/ the sun than coming out of a black light, but want to avoid it long term. Also, avoid pointing it in your eyes / exposed skin too much.
How to overdrive LEDs to do your bidding.
I would buy a pack of 100 cheap 20mA UV leds because they basically have the same Voltage/Current curve as 3W leds (just divided by 10 or so), so they burn up roughly equivalently but draw a ton less current and are way cheaper to mess up with.
I burnt out a lot of 3W leds discovering that 200us pulses of 12V from a battery are too long. The LED itself wasn't getting hot, but I think the bonding wire is not able to handle the high current for that long. Interesting… Going with 80us at full brightness (which is still kinda dim). To increase the brightness I'll need to lower the current through the wire. Might be able to get away with PWM mid-brightness for longer period.
When will a current get high enough that you'll burn a wire? P = I^2 * R. So if you have a high resistance wire you'll need to dissapate the heat somehow. However the high resistance will also limit the amount of current that can flow… hm….
Anyways, 24 awg wire has 25 ohms resistance per 1000 feet. So .075 ohms for 3 feet. Normally at say 10 amps, that'd be 7.5 watts, way too hot. However, since we're duty cycling it hard core it's fine! Also, based on the V = I * R formula, at 12V our max current would be 160 amps. Cool, plenty of headroom.
Turns out that you can solder 3W leds to wire hangers, and the hangers make great heat sinks too!
Since surface mount LEDs are routinely soldered on boards, they can handle 230 C for a little bit (soldering temperature). But try not to push it.
From Cree, apparently this is a JEDEC spec! https://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/XLampMCE_SolderingandHandling.pdf
Fascinating. Hillsboro's code is basically “look at the aashto policy on geometric design of highways and streets spec”, see https://qcode.us/codes/hillsboro/view.php?topic=12-12_50-12_50_260.
But a good overview is probably this from Kennewick Washington. sightlines_kennewick.pdf
Or this one from cycling savvy (https://cyclingsavvy.org/road-cycling/#bikelane). Great review of defensive biking skills, including how it's safer to bike in the center of the driving lane when there's no good bike lane and there's another lane to pass with.
Might not be able to get much done in Hillsboro, but at least it's a thing. Bike lanes help a ton, so I'm not complaining really, but it's really important to stay aware.
Mr. Domes, Nate ——, Angus, Intel person, Mr. Ocker, E. Shriver, M. Lemay, jacob jun pan, Garrett C., Carley on wheelchair
Engine oil is too viscous at room temperature, it has to heat up first. So not as penetrating as machine oil / gear oil.
Get a rear rack with panniers or buckets so you can ride more freely and cool off your body too! Evaporative cooling ;)
It's a great feeling to DIY something. You gain character and experience as you overcome obstacles. Also, you can make it exactly how you like it, and get to watch things as they fail! And refine your design, etc. Making one yourself and knowing how to fix it when it breaks! And it's only $30 worth in (soldering/hot gluing) supplies! And you can make something totally custom, like this…
You can buy something for $10. (LAMPHUS Cruizer LED Off-Road Light Horizontal Bar Clamp Mounting Kit)
Or…something like this! (full clamp?)
Can use hose clamps (if really need rust-resistance, use 316 stainless steel) and put old inner tube on the inside against the bike handle for better grip.
Then drill a small hole on the spot where you want the bolt to come out. Then mount the bolt head against the bar and push the threads through the clamp out towards you. Bam. Clamped! Wonder how solid it will be!
Might be useful to add a taped sticky note with website. “Make your own at nhergert.ozeo.org” / “Google it! DIY Light Bike”.
Turns out solder is 50x more conductive than thermal grease! The grease is used more often for easy removability and non-electrical-conductivity. But since I'm using a coat hanger, it's easy to remove later.
Also steel is only 1/2 the conductivity of aluminum? Cool.
Needs to be splash-proof, handle lots of vibrations.
I like the ability of crimped connectors to strain relief on the housing instead of the wire.
Just go with a light switch. Plentiful, easy to use, cheap, and recognizable.
Ended up clearing the arduino bootloader maybe because of browning it out because of using a simple voltage divider in the below method.
It doesn't need to be a physically latching switch. You can use a momentary switch and a uC or a few more components.
Voltage divider to bring 12V down to 5V, both for <10V mosfet control (although 12v might work) and allowing the Arduino to read the 5V as input to know when to not keep itself on. Mosfet is inline with voltage divider to allow current to flow.
It can just be momentary to turn on the MOSFET that controls the voltage regulator. Then the arduino can keep itself latched until you press/hold the switch again to turn it off! No power to arduino and Low power for pull-down resistor on mosfet…
Generally want to use n-fet apparently because you can't control higher than 5V. https://www.espruino.com/mosfets
Cover it with plastic bag, kinda lame though.
Buy a box of rubber-covered small switches.
Or do the usual, which is make a small rubber … cover thing for the switch that the switch's pressure keeps it pushes on the backside against the circular edge.
Or somehow make a bond with plastic and rubber?
The alternative (a big button and most arcade buttons) is just so deep, need to be creative with mounting.
Maybe flat would work better…
Should you even bike?
Most of the time at night, you're good enough with a 500 lumen light. However, when it's raining and the ground is covered with water, it's not good enough. <take a picture/video example, with a hose>. You can't see wet objects / that annoying pothole because the ground is reflecting the sky, which is black.
For really good visibility you want >1000 lumens spread out over 8-10 feet ahead of you.
So…what about lights for cars or motorcycles?!
Can buy 12V Lipo battery packs with an included charger for $30, 5000mah. Unfortunately looks like they're current limited to 3A. Hmmm, might need to rewire some things.
You want to have a focused beam so you don't blind drivers and maximize your ability to view stuff in the bike lane. Basically, it seems to need a small lens in front of it (space efficient) or a really deep-throated reflector (lots more space). The un-focused “spot” light just had a minimal reflector behind it and no lens on the front. <DEMONSTRATE WITH TWO LED LIGHTS ON DESK>
Also, while all (except LYLLA) drew around 12 watts, some brands picked better LEDs or had other features (price) that made me buy them. They all seemed well-built. I would encourage you to just buy a few of them like I did and try them out!
All were measured 1 meter away from the wall, against a 400 lumen, 5W reference headlamp I have.
|1||Northpole Spot LED Light Bar 2 X 27W||12W|
|2|| Swatow Industries 84W!!! |
Was not 84 watts!
Also was pretty yellow, which didn't show up well in image
|3||LYLLA One Mode High Beam CREE||6W|
|4||TSIALEE 4“ 20W Motorcycle Fog Lights||12W|
|5|| Auxbeam 3 inch LED Light Bar … Spot Beam |
Brightest and most focused, $16 each. Not bad.
|6||Old School Bulb Lamp, drew 60 watts!||60W|
98% of the time a rear red blinker and a front white light / blinker with a reflective jacket is good enough. However I seemed to have a close call once a week in the winter darkness despite this. And they all were in a particular scenario….
It's the 90 degree angles, because reflectors and front-facing lights don't work!
Check out book: Make Props and Costume Armor: Create Realistic Science Fiction adn Fanasy Weapons, Armor, and Accessories.
Might be able to make original using Pepakura. https://makezine.com/projects/halloween-2016-build-props-and-costume-armor-with-paper-pepakura-and-bondo/
Probably want to make a mother mold since it's such a huge thing to make.
Composimold probably won't work for resin:
Composimold is great for food safe casting such as chocolate. Plaster is an ideal casting material as it is low exotherm and will not melt the mold. For food safe applications, Composimold Food Safe mold release must be used. This is a great starter material for learning the basics of molding and casting. It is ideal for simple, 1 sided parts or basic figurines. See our selection of silicone mold compounds for complicated resin casting.
Follow Adam Savage tutorial: https://makezine.com/projects/make-08/primer-moldmaking/.
Probably going to go with either rotomolding:
or slush casting:
or vacuum forming:
Looks like the pros use clear plastic infused with barium sulfate: https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/light-scattering-grade-barium-sulfate-248191361.html. Will see what it's like at TAP plastics.
I liked the polyethylene at Ace. Kinda milky
TAP plastics, they have:
Lights up your fluorescent vest! Currently have a focused AA light, might get a 2nd one. Tried out a Big Lots light, but it gets into eyes a little too easily for no benefit.
Don't get multi-mode AA flashlights. Poor ones only take a little jitter to change modes, and you want full brightness all the time anyways.
So I wanted something that would work for that. And maybe spice up the ride home a bit for other commuters
The usual craft stuff has a low “softness” temperature of 130F. Also our glue gun only goes to 280F. Increasing to 400F will help grippiness, but it'll still be soft in sunlight. So will call hot glue folks and see what they recommend / say.
Also best to heat up the metal or whatever, apparently, before connecting.
Is 3M tape better? As long as it's somewhat easily removable. Probably a lot less frustration for end user over buying a hotter hot glue gun.
I'm leaning towards much larger (1”?), lightweight tubing that I wrap/glue with outdoor fluorescent yellow flagging tape. Good source for cheap ($1.50 + $3.50 shipping). http://smithsafetysupply.com/fluorescent-glo-flagging-ribbons/
Hard to find tubing that is outdoor proof and not transparent and cheap. Flagging tape it is!
= Straws = Found food fluorescent straws from Cash and Carry, but they faded over time and aren't that wide.
Clear or white/multicolored straws?
Mix in glow pigment with outdoor acrylic paint. Clear or white? Also, add reflective beads or not?
Brightest glow comes from the non-fluorescent pigment, as it takes up some of the brightness apparently. However, having the fluorescent is more important for this application. Show a picture / video!
Would like even application. Kinda tricky though. What application method?
Not sure if I need resin or if I can get away with clear quick-setting paint. Will probably do final order through Art N Glow (they sell through amazon!) because I know I want fluorescent yellow and it's hard over amazon to make sure.
For some reason, perfectly diffuse/indirect light looks really cool to me.
If you feel you need one to send a friendly “hi-ho neighbor” or worse, car horns are now in your reach and $20-$30! Nobody hears a bell for some reason…(show youtube video)
Avoid roads that have “close call” residential side streets with fences up to the edge of the sidewalk/street, both in daytime and nighttime. Show video?
Plan on braking ahead of every side street. If there's no car coming, you don't need to brake. If there's a car, start braking lightly and look directly at the driver to see if they see you. If not, it's a lot easier to brake and be safe than it will be to get their attention or recover from getting hit.
About 1-2 days every few months my main bike is out of commission, and because I'm working and tired at the end of the day it takes some motivation to fix it! Hence, having a 2nd bike is kinda nice. Just take off and don't worry about it. As opposed to driving those days, which is $2-3 a drive.
Also beneficial is that someone else can borrow your bike and ride bikes with you easily. Jae or whoever.
If space is an issue, not as fun to store it, make sure no one will steal it, etc.
The one I just bought is roughly the same as the Coast headlight I have, which is ~400 lumens. Definitely not 6000.
Would like rechargeable batteries, and around 1000 lumens would be really nice. Don't want to deal with mounting a car headlight though. Although it might be easiest to use a 12V thing since I have big batteries for it already.
Just buy several from Amazon and return the ones you don't want! Simple.
This style isn't the “spot” I'm looking for, I don't think. However, maybe better constructed?
I probably want 10 degrees, right? Also, looks cooler…
Can mount by just drilling holes in bike handlebars…? Prefer the clamp on style though…
Just leave them plugged into a 12V for a while, see how long it lasts? And how hot.
Need to probably redo gaskets with silicone. Make sure thermal paste is applied well.
Wire used is 18 gauge, which is ok if separated for 15 amps, together for 3 amps. Should be good enough.
27“ wheels, will probably need a new freewheel / axle or just spring for a new wheel + cassette (https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=84287&gclid=CjwKCAjwqarbBRBtEiwArlfEIOVY3H-0rS9kxLT5iNPqRUqoLT6vKRr-_XnvwMNb_rOvi-qkosUx0xoCHOcQAvD_BwE).
Cylinders are stronger than solid bars of the same weight: https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/12913/hollow-tube-stronger-than-solid-bar-of-same-outside-diameter-o-d. Which is an unfair comparison, few people care about weight.
However, weight isn't really an issue. Long term durability is though. Apparently for this author's history, he's had nary a quick release failure and many solid axle failures. Interesting…
Really need FLOURESCENT!
Safety vest is easiest as it goes easily over other shirts. Sucks to have to buy 5 fluorescent shirts!
$4 shirt at Decathlon. Too bad I'm not in SF. https://www.decathlon.com/products/mens-running-t-shirt-run-dry?adept_source=search-results
Maybe try Goodwill or others? See if they'll do $5.
Maybe cut off the sleeves for better circulation?
Not effective enough during daytime.
Model on Scary monsters and nice sprites? https://youtu.be/WSeNSzJ2-Jw?t=1m20s
Put backpack on rear rack, probably in panniers?
Almost no matter how hot it is or how hard I'm riding, I'm not really sweaty until I stop moving. That's because 1) I'm wearing bike clothes designed to wick moisture and evaporate it quickly, and 2) almost no matter what the weather is doing, while I'm moving I'm headed into a steady wind that quickly evaporates sweat.
So just do three things:
1) Wear sports clothing designed to wick moisture.
2) Slow down and cool down a kilometer or so before you reach work. Cruise around in slow circles in the parking lot if you must until you can stop and not feel sweaty.
3) Bring a change of clothing and once you've cooled down and stopped sweating, head for the bathroom and change.
Evaporated sweat doesn't smell. Only old sweat that has lingered and had time to allow bacteria and fungi to grow smells. So go ahead and sweat but just make sure you're dry when you change into your work clothing.
De-stinking smelly stuff: http://www.smellyfeetcures.com/how-to-de-stink-smelly-shoes/
Great videos on how to do ball bearings, axle, freewheel, etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNzN9oTQA8s
Freewheel is old style. Cassette is new style, less strain on axle. Probably need to buy a new rim though. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54bP6N9GLEc
On red mtb, offical width of bb for pedals is 124.5mm. Ok to cut it short 2mm. http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?id=7b55df65-8245-4679-94f2-03f3d7a1caf7
Brake adjustment: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJeYSKUI-6A
Basically, want them to extend to the ground, generally.
Rolled edges needed to prevent additional spray? Maybe just a lane of hot glue to provide a bump for the water to not want to go over…
Also, why not extend further up the front for avoiding front spray? Maybe they just don't go that fast?!
Really great so far, except crank getting loose (alternative unicycle cranks here: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/main-forum/general-discussions/16233-left-crank-always-loosens?p=16307#post16307) and squeak in engine area only when pedaling and motor running.
Wind resistance dwarfs rolling resistance at >10mph by a large margin. Rolling resistance for a road gatorskin is maybe 10 watts lower than MTB tire (20 vs 30 watts). 10 watts on an electric bike is nothing.
My wind resistance test of moving from upright riding position to crouched seems to give me 1mph, which is about 30 extra watts. Interesting stuff…
Consensus seems to be cheap light nylon/polyester jacket with air holes. No need for heavy jacket. Maybe spring for goretex stuff? https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1304/what-clothing-is-best-for-wet-weather-cycling-in-the-rain
Wear the same clothes and let them dry out at work/home. 5 miles is short.
Basically leather is best/great. http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html.
Also, Jim Langley's site provides great historical bike seat designs: http://www.jimlangley.net/crank/bicycleseats.html
and Cervelo engineering: https://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering-field-notes/the-four-and-a-half-rules-of-road-saddles
Foam is designed to … (distribute the weight evenly? But how is that weight transferred evenly??)
Mount light using two pieces of aluminum (maybe not wood, as it can rot?! But it's easy to practice on right now…) , cut spots for the glass posts on the back of the light on the back piece of aluminum and then sandwich the front piece using bolts onto holes drilled. Be sure to file all edges, maybe even round off the edges too. Need to probably pre-drill large holes so you can re-attach the hack saw in the hole and start cutting. Then can round with file. He recommended 1/8” and 1/4“ aluminum, not sure why not steel.
Probably good to balance front and rear pannier weight (or just have front pannniers??!) so you don't bust spokes.
A cheap recommended hub motor is ebikeling. $150 shipped. And a portland company provides 36V batteries.
BBS02 programming: https://electricbike-blog.com/2015/06/26/a-hackers-guide-to-programming-the-bbs02/ and installation https://electricbike-blog.com/bbs02-installation/
48V battery/motor is 30% faster than 36V, but maximum assist speed legally is 20mph. And my 36V max of 41V is around 25mph. So, it's illegal / motorcycle territory
So…after a charge to 41V and a bike to work, it's at 38V. 80% charge is 36V, which is 20mph territory. I kinda like going faster, so I might keep it in 40V territory and sacrifice battery longevity, but improve it using low DoD.
|18||39.4-7 V (I forgot)|
Get where you want to go, except faster.
$325 for motor in Beaverton. $200 for 36V battery in Vancouver.
Cheap to try out, can re-sell the parts for more or less the same price….eventually.
Still need to figure out:
Multiply amps by volts to get KWh/hr. 150 watts is a sprinting cyclist, so .25KwhHr is ~2 hours of sprinting!
Do I really have a problem with this?? http://blog.bikefit.com/how-to-fit-a-road-bicycle/. Look at tonight w/ dad's cycle thing.
Helpful is to:
Need to really try the bike out.
Competitive bicyclist calcaultor: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp#measures
|Actual Inseam (against pubic bone)||32.75”-32.875“|
Aggressive bikes force you to bend flat to use them.
Lots of variables. Most calculators count gas cost but ignore food costs. Biking is more efficient energy-wise, yes, but food is expensive and humans don't do a great job of converting it to mechanical energy.
This one does a pretty good job of giving you a heads-up though of all the costs of a car. http://bicycleuniverse.info/
How the dutch got their cycling infrastructure: https://bicycledutch.wordpress.com/2011/10/20/how-the-dutch-got-their-cycling-infrastructure/
This post is also very insightful. http://www.ski-epic.com/amsterdam_bicycles/
Biking extends your life vs. not exercising
While gyroscopic and trail effects contribute, there's another effect. Involves lots of equations: http://www.nature.com/news/the-bicycle-problem-that-nearly-broke-mathematics-1.20281
Cable lock alarm is ok, but I'd rather have chain too. here
Really solid lock seems to be Abus locks, like this one
Maybe ask Angus about this, but using a tough tire w/ liner is one option. Another is to put tire sealant in it.
Final version needs to be non-toxic, as you put it in your mouth. Bond rubber to rubber.
Solvent dissolves rubber.
Do I have to powder the patch/tube after I'm finished?? Might be to prevent sticking to inside of tire
Vulcanization focus on the first few sentences.
What are glueless patches made from? Is it good neough for long-term use?
Contact adhesive is FINE - especially if your in a place that you get frequent punctures... and your epecting like 50 flats in 6 months. I tend to like clamping the patch and tube together while still a little wet, between two large coins and a set of foldback paper clamps / clips, and to leave them dry overnight - or over a cigarette lighter. - just warming the coins up a bit. I have also found that the solvent and the formulation of the adhesive, tends to make the tube rubber go crumbly and cracking - this usually becomes a problem after around 12 months - where as the "proper gum cement" makes patches that are more or less eternal, even when clamped up wet, and left to dry over night. So contact cement IS very good, but it will ROT HOLES through the rubber inner tube, and it will become a problem after a year or so....
you want to use the sandpaper or scraper to scrape the rubber to expose some 'fresh' rubber the 'glue' has to dry absolutely before you patch (as it's not 'glue' in the sense we know it) a glued patch is as strong as the original rubber – or stronger.
Orange and black patches are de-vulcanized….
Large front light (sealed beam headlight), similar to car size (hand-width) so you maximize retina space.